December 2017

Colombia - more than just coffee
REMOTE YEAR

Colombia – more than just coffee

After falling in love with Peru, I was sad to leave for Colombia. After all, it’s not on the water and the only thing I knew about the country was they grow coffee and have a reputation for drugs. I reluctantly packed my bags and boarded the plane for the three-hour flight.   After spending two weeks here, I can honestly say I love Medellin!   True, it’s not on the water but it’s surrounded by mountains, full of palm trees and lush green plants, with a river going through the city and a consistent spring-time climate. Plus, the people are so friendly and the food is delicious!   But the final piece that makes me love this city?   They love Christmas as much as I do!   There are extensive light displays in every neighborhood, much bigger than anything I’ve seen at home. Nearly every house and apartment building is decorated, fireworks take place each night and Christmas music proudly plays in stores, offices and streets.   We heard about a holiday parade taking place on Friday night and headed out. We arrived just in time to see a marching band, including flag bearers and gymnasts, performing under thousands of strings of lights. We followed along, clapping and singing and taking photos.   I couldn’t stop looking around – there were families and children enjoying the festivities, food trucks and stalls with Christmas cakes and cookies, street vendors selling toys and whistles, and lights everywhere.   We followed the path and discovered lights hanging from trees, lights in the shape of cupcakes and candy canes and hot air balloons, lights covering the grass and river, lights on the fence and street posts, lights, lights and more lights!   I smiled and laughed and giggled as we strolled along. I couldn’t get enough of the Christmas spirit. People asked me to take photos of them and I asked others to take photos of me.   Why is it everyone is so much more friendly this time of year?   I realized we were making a circle around a lake and in the middle was a big stage and light show set to Christmas music. I stopped to soak it all up – the lights, the music, the night sky, the people surrounding me.   And I started to cry.   There is just something so terribly romantic about the holidays and I longed to be strolling along holding hands with the man I love.   (I haven’t found him yet but he’s out there somewhere…hopefully dreaming about holding hands with me and strolling along under the holiday lights…)   When we decided to head home, we couldn’t find an Uber or taxi! There were too many people, too many vehicles, and roads closed for the parade.   As we stood there waiting, our toes started tapping and we realized all of us were grooving to the music pouring out of a nearby bar. We decided to go for one drink and then try to find a ride home.   We walked over and sat down on the chairs outside. People were standing around, cooking over an open fire or setting off fireworks in the street.   An older gentleman brought over four beers and set them on our table. I tried to explain that I didn’t drink beer and he directed me to a fully stocked cooler inside the front door.   As I went over to see what they had, I realized there was a bedroom across the hall…and a living room…and…wait a minute!   We were in someone’s house! This wasn’t a bar at all!   We had just walked up and sat down at someone’s house and they served us drinks and food – as guests! We laughed at our mistake as they warmly included us in the festivities.   The older gentleman invited each woman to dance and we took our turns dancing and laughing and watching the family celebrate.   We said our goodbyes and hopped into a taxi, marveling at the generosity of strangers and the random adventures that happen when you say “yes”.   One of the other things I love about this time of year is giving back, in whatever way I can. So when we heard about an organization looking for volunteers to work with kids, I jumped at the chance.   We met in the morning and took taxis to another neighborhood, where we then hopped on a bus and headed straight up the mountain.   We arrived and were taken to a small building, which turned out to be their community hall. Children were lined up against a wall and looked up at us with big eyes.   Oh my goodness, I wanted to scoop them all up!   Our goal was to make a traditional holiday dessert, play with the kids and then give each child a present. A few people headed outside to build a stove to make the dessert and I sat down near the kids.   We were in an empty room – no toys, no books, no balls, nothing at all to play with. The children were three years old or younger, some still in diapers and a few still holding their moms’ hands.   A little girl came over and sat near me.   I love children but I wasn’t sure how to communicate with this little girl. My Spanish is basic, and she didn’t know any English. The only thing I could think to do was play “patty cake”. Her eyes lit up as we clapped hands and soon she began singing. She had the sweetest, softest little voice and I encouraged her with smiles and laughter as we clapped our hands together.   Someone found paper and crayons and we started drawing Christmas trees, tracing our hands and making paper airplanes.   When I got to present her with a gift, her brown eyes got even bigger and she

Friends Peru Remote Year
REMOTE YEAR

Forging friendships at Machu Picchu

When I saw my itinerary included Peru in month 9, I began planning my trip to Machu Picchu. I didn’t realize all the ways you could arrive there – everything from one, two, and four-day hikes, the classic Inca Trail, the short Inca Trail, the Salkantay/Inca Trail combo and more.   As I read about the effects of higher altitudes and was honest about my current level of fitness, I decided the best route for me was to take a train, then a bus, then explore the actual ruins.   Five girlfriends and I boarded a plane in Lima and took the 1 hour 15 minute flight to Cusco.   Although I typically don’t take medicine unless absolutely necessary, I gave in to my friends concern and took an altitude sickness pill before landing. (Cusco’s elevation is 3,400 m or 11,200 ft.)   We checked into our hotel and headed off to find lunch. As we walked along, we noticed we were all short of breath and our energy was low.   We stopped at a nearby restaurant to give ourselves time to acclimatize.   Part way through our meal, one of our friends pushed her plate back and said she wasn’t feeling well. All the color drained from her face and we barely caught her as she passed out.   Our waiter came over quickly and began fanning her, another staff person brought some rubbing alcohol and slowly our friend came to. But then just as quickly, her color faded again but this time her lips turned blue and she started convulsing.   I’ve never been so terrified in my life.   We got her on the floor, one person called International SOS to find us a hospital, someone else called a taxi, someone paid our bill and I grabbed all her belongings. We got her in the cab, two friends jumped in with her and they sped off.   Adrienne and I stood on the sidewalk shaking like little leaves.   What just happened?          Was that altitude sickness?                      Could it happen to us at any moment?   We showed each other where we kept our medical insurance cards, confirmed we both had the SOS app on our phones and made a plan in case one of us passed out.   Then we slowly walked to the textile museum to check out the ancient art of weaving, and hopefully calm ourselves down.   Eight hours later, the hospital released our friend and gave her permission to carry on to Aguas Caliente, which is a lower altitude. (She had high-altitude cerebral edema – which can be fatal if not immediately treated!)   Exhausted and relived, we boarded the train for our 4.5 hour journey to Aguas Caliente (aka Machu Picchu). The train ride was stunning, with a full glass roof so we could see all the mountains, rivers, valleys and towns.   Too excited to sleep in, we were standing in line at 5am waiting to be whisked up the mountain to see our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.   The bus ride may seem like the easy choice compared to the steep climb up, but it had its own element of danger.   The drivers roared up the mountain like race car drivers, fish-tailing the bus around each switch-back, and leaving us hanging on to the seats for dear life. The dirt road is only wide enough for one bus in most spots, although we somehow squeezed by when an approaching bus came barreling downhill.   With no guard rails and a long way down, I kept my eyes on the horizon and the sunshine hitting the peaks of the mountains.   20 minutes later, we got off the bus and joined the line to enter the main gates.   Our guide led us along the path and made a quick left – up a series of stone steps, climbing higher and higher. Some stairs were a small step up, while others were a big step up and required a helping hand from friends.   Finally, we were at the top. I walked around the corner and there it was – the Machu Picchu you see in all the photos. Only more beautiful in person.   The sun was shining, the sky was blue and all of Machu Picchu laid out before me in lush greens and smooth sand-colored rocks. It was breath-taking.   I stood there and stared. I breathed in the fresh mountain air and marveled at the series of events that led me to be standing in this very place.   The dreams you have, the planning you do, and then the moment it all comes together. It’s magical.   Of course we took hundreds of photos – photos of Machu Picchu, photos of just me, photos of our group.   We carried on for three hours, our guide explaining the history, the culture, the purposes for each section of the citadel, the perfect placement of windows and rocks to line up with the sun and stars. It was fascinating.   Then our group divided, half deciding to climb Machu Picchu Mountain (4 hours of gruelling stone stairs) and the other half continuing to explore Machu Picchu. (Guess which group I chose? Yup, no more stairs for me!)   We wandered through the ruins looking for the perfect spot to do a meditation together. We found a room we hadn’t explored before, sat down on rocks that seemed meant for the purpose and closed our eyes.   Warmed by the sun, lulled by a gentle breeze, I soaked up every sensation and felt my heart full of love and gratitude – for the journey, for the women I shared it with, for this beautiful place.   The next day Amy and Adrienne headed back to hike Huayna Picchu Mountain and the other girls stayed in town. I decided to head back

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